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 The idea of "winter wines" is not so much about specific vintages being appropriate in one season and unacceptable in another. It is about which characteristics of certain wines that match well with the season, and the foods we associate with the season. In colder times, most of us seek heartier foods like stews, heavy soups and pastas to stoke our body temperatures and placate our winter woes. It makes perfect sense to pair certain wines with these classic cold weather staples. Just as you might earmark a Beaujolais or Rose for your summer barbecue, you can be just as deliberate in your approach to wine this winter season. Here are some good selections worthy of your consideration.
From the heart of La Rioja, Spain comes the Campo Viejo Reserva, representative of the best in Rioja quality, and is sure to conjure up compliments at the dinner table this winter. There is intense fruit concentration; the texture is glossy, and storage in American oak gives the wine a conspicuous hint of vanilla. This wine pairs well with fiery and peppery foods, such as chorizo or paella.
The wines of Northern and Central Italy offer many fine choices for the season. Soave from the Veneto, Tuscany's Vernaccia di San Gimignano and Gavi from the Piemonte are whites that go perfectly with stews and roasts and such.
At one time, these wines, which are made from ancient grape varieties, were available only from one major supplier, Mastroberadino, and were very expensive. Although Mastroberadino remains the region's major supplier, other producers have developed less expensive and equally delicious facsimiles. These include The Greco di Tufu Serapis 2000 by Montesole and The Flano di Avellino 2000 by Marianna, both of which sell for about $15.00. Both of these wines are dry and crisp, the former delivering a flavor of apple and almond, and the latter one of pears and hazelnut. Tiefenbrunner 2003 Pinot Grigio from the Trentino-Alto Adige region on the border with Germany is also ideal on a chilly night and partners well with risotto dishes. In particular, this intense Pinot Grigio resonates with pear on the palate and has a good acidity balance going on.
If you prefer red wines, especially while eating poultry or tomato dishes, Barberas and Chiantis have good acidity and are excellent choices. Fruity, spicy Zinfandel (The Burton Napa Valley 2000, which costs about $18) also ranks high as a companion to most red meat selections.
So sit by the fire and relax with a glass of your favorite wine. Whether you prefer white or red, remember that the important thing is to stay warm.
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